Throughout history, the Romanian traditional ethnic items, particularly the folk costume, have been admired for their timeless elegance and distinction. These attributes are mainly provided by the thoughtful color composition, as well as the organic combination of plain sections with those enriched by embroidery. The 19th century comes to reinforce this perspective, offering a new proof of it: the Oltenian coat.

The vision of Dincă Schileru - a legend of the Gorj region and the creator of the Oltenian coat (or ' schileresc' costume), an uneducated man, but having the millennial wisdom of the Romanian peasant - still manages to be relevant for the contemporary fashion. The famous Oltenian wool coats have impressed and inspired great names, commencing with Queen Marie of Romania in the 20th century, who tastefully integrated them into the attire of the Royal House, and continuing with big international fashion labels, from Valentino to Tory Burch. These coats were for a long time the subject of a complex public debate on ethical values in fashion, which encouraged the Romanian society to value more and capitalize on the potential of its artisanal art.

Traditionally, the coats from Oltenia are made of white 'dimie' (wool fibers condensed and pressed together to become a felted cloth) and decorated with black 'gîtane' (string made by twisting or braiding the wool threads, appearing as an embroidery), which is applied on the joining seams of fabric panels, with the purpose of hiding the seams and strengthening the hems.

The legacy left by Dincă Schileru is currently in the hands of the only artisan from Gorj who still knows how to practice this craft, Gheorghe Ciuncanu, the one whose creations can be found in our e-shop, where you will be able to read more details about them.

In the heart of Gorj, we found a master of his craft—not with a wand, but with a needle and thread. He learned the art of traditional costume-making as a child and has elevated it to a true form of artistry. His intricate embroidery is admired across the world, with collectors willing to pay a premium for his work. Gheorghe Ciuncanu is a guardian of Romanian folk heritage, bringing tradition to life with every stitch.

Gheorghe Ciuncanu, from the village of Topești, is the only embroiderer in Gorj County, creating true works of art using two machines that are nearly 140 years old.

Two embroidery machines from the year 1876—one German-made and the other of French origin—are the centerpiece of Gheorghe Ciuncanu's small workshop, set up within his household in Topești, Tismana. At 63 years old, he remains the last active embroiderer in Gorj County. The two machines still function perfectly, thanks to Gheorghe Ciuncanu’s meticulous care and ability to repair them himself:

"They work very well. I use them because they create unique embroideries—nothing like them exists today. I repair them myself whenever they break down. I have to custom-order parts because they are no longer available anywhere. ," says Gheorghe Ciuncanu.

One of the machines was inherited from his father, who was also an embroiderer, while the other was purchased.

The clothes I make aren’t meant to be washed in a machine—they should be cleaned at a dry cleaner’s. I work exclusively with 100% wool, and the colors have never faded. I’ve never received a single complaint. Also, in my collection, I have an 80-year-old costume made with ‘găitane’ that is still in perfect condition

Embroidering Since the Age of 14

Gheorghe Ciuncanu works daily in his workshop, assisted by his wife, as some tasks require two people to complete.

The craftsman takes the greatest pleasure in creating traditional garments specific to Gorj: “The most challenging design to make is the ‘schileresc’ pattern. A single piece can take me several months to complete because it requires exceptional focus. But working on Gorj’s traditional costume gives me a sense of authenticity as well.”

He also makes miniature costumes for dolls, which he finds even more difficult to craft: “These tiny outfits are usually given as gifts to young girls so they can dress their dolls,” he adds.

Gheorghe Ciuncanu learned the craft from his father, a highly skilled artisan, and later worked at Arta Casnică Tismana, a once-famous workshop in Romania.

"I grew up surrounded by this trade. Ever since I started crawling, it was part of my life. After finishing seventh grade, my father took me to Arta Casnică, where I became an apprentice. I loved this craft then, and I still love it today—otherwise, I wouldn’t have continued. It’s not difficult, but you have to truly enjoy it. This art needs to be protected by the state," he says.

In 2016, the magazine Beau Monde and the advertising agency McCann launched the a campaign, which highlighted the issue of cultural appropriation in fashion. The campaign gained momentum after being embraced by the Facebook community for traditions and Romanian culture of the La Blouse Roumaine Ia Association (note: not affiliated with this platform). It was sparked by a controversy involving designer Tory Burch, who replicated the Romanian suman without acknowledging its origins.

The campaign brought international attention to the importance of giving credit to artisans and traditional craftsmanship, reinforcing the need to protect cultural heritage in the fashion industry.

The craftsmanship of Gheorghe Ciuncanu is more than just a skill—it is a living testament to European cultural heritage. His work preserves traditions passed down through generations, ensuring that authentic Romanian embroidery continues to thrive in a modern world that often overlooks such artistry.

Each piece he creates is not just clothing but a masterpiece—woven with history, patience, and an unmatched dedication to excellence. These garments are not only rare and exquisite but also bear the soul of a craft that deserves recognition and protection. In a time when fast fashion dominates, true artistry like this stands as a reminder of the beauty and value of handmade traditions.