Interwar Officer Jacket

BRS Files
Collection: Gorj Heritage
Date Catalogued: October 2025

Name: Interwar Officer Jacket
Maker: Professor Gheorghe Ciuncanu
Origin: Tismana, Gorj County, Romania
Technique: Broderie schilărească / Hand-applied soutache (giatane) embroidery
Material: Black wool broadcloth, gold silk and metallic cords
Date of Creation: 2025
Typological Identification

Short black wool jacket with golden soutache (giatane), a contemporary reinterpretation of the laibăr or festive suman specific to Gorj County in southwestern Romania.

Materials and Construction

Dense black wool fabric (postav) with a straight, hip-length cut, high collar and set-in sleeves. Central fastening with soutache frog buttons and continuous gold cord edging along hems and seams, both decorative and structural.

Decorative System (Soutache / Giatane Work)

Hand-applied soutache embroidery using gold cord, forming stylized laurel and fern leaf motifs symmetrically arranged on the front and cuffs, scrollwork on the collar. This technique, known as broderie schilărească, was historically used in Gorj for festive garments.

Ethnographic Context (Gorj / Oltenia)

In Gorj, wool jackets called laibăre were decorated with golden soutache cords (găitan), signifying craftsmanship, prestige, and refined urban influence. The use of metallic embroidery reflected both folk protection symbols and European military aesthetics.

Historical Lineage & Fashion Crossroads

The decorative vocabulary derives from 18th–19th century Hussar and officer uniforms. During the interwar period, these influences evolved into urban ceremonial fashion, merging military precision with Romanian artisanal ornamentation. This jacket reinterprets that dialogue for the 21st century.

Formal Reading (Design Analysis)

The high collar and compact silhouette create a disciplined, upright line. The rhythm of repeated laurel motifs brings balance and symmetry, while the interplay between matte wool and glossy soutache expresses restrained nobility. The unisex nature of the design reflects a modern reinterpretation of traditional hierarchy.

Notes: Handcrafted by master artisan and embroidery professor Gheorghe Ciuncanu. Each gold cord is applied manually following traditional schilărească technique from Gorj, blending folk discipline with urban refinement.

Curated by Blouse Roumaine Shop