The Creation Process of the Romanian Blouse (IA)

The Romanian blouse is a traditional women's garment, part of the Romanian national dress, crafted from white hemp, cotton, linen, or borangic (fine silk) fabric. The ie is adorned with intricate embroidery and decorative stitching, with regional variations that make each piece unique.

Types of Romanian Blouses

Based on their tailoring system, Romanian blouses can be categorized into two main types:

  1. Straight or loose-fitting shirt – This has a T-shape and is cut from three fabric widths, folded over the shoulders. It is often simple in decoration and used for daily wear. In Moldova, straight shirts made of wool are highly valued.

  2. Wrinkled shirt around the neck – A more festive garment, this type consists of four straight sheets gathered around the neckline, with elaborate embroidery concentrated on the sleeves, yoke, and neckline.

Embroidery and Decoration

Embroidery Fields and Techniques

Embroidery on the ie varies by region, but generally follows a structured arrangement. The most decorated areas include:

  • Sleeves

  • Shoulder seams

  • Neckline

  • Cuffs (bracelets or “brățară”)

  • Lower part of the blouse

Distinctive decorative elements include the crease (încreț), rivers (râuri), and bands (galoane), which follow intricate patterns.

Stitching Techniques

The art of Romanian embroidery consists of various stitches, each with specific purposes and aesthetic effects. Some of the most important are:

  • Before-the-needle stitch – Used for outlining patterns and creating texture.

  • Behind-the-needle stitch (Tighel stitch) – Used for edging and joining fabric pieces.

  • Cross-stitch – A highly popular technique used for geometric and floral motifs.

  • Loop stitch (Chain stitch) – An ancient stitch found in several regions.

  • Oblique stitch and Cord stitch – Used for curved designs and ornamental borders.

  • Festoon stitch – Used to join fabrics and embellish key areas with decorative cutouts.

Materials Used in Making a Romanian Blouse

Fabrics

Since ancient times, traditional garments were made from:

  • Hemp and flax – Used since the Neolithic era for rustic blouses.

  • Cotton – Introduced in later centuries and widely used in modern blouses

  • Silk (Borangic) – Used for traditional festive blouses.

Threads

Embroidery threads include:

  • Natural silk (ibrishim), wool, cotton, and arnica

  • Gold and silver threads – Used for ceremonial blouses

  • Beads and sequins – Introduced in later styles to enhance visual appeal

Traditional Colors and Dyes

The colors of Romanian embroidery are deeply symbolic, derived from natural dyes made from plants, fruits, and tree bark. Some common colors include:

  • Red – A symbol of vitality and protection

  • Black – Strength and stability

  • Yellow/Gold – Sunlight and prosperity

  • Green – Nature and fertility

  • Blue – Rare, representing spiritual depth and sky

Regional Variations in Romanian Blouses

Each Romanian region has distinct styles of embroidery and fabric use:

  • Oltenia – Wide sleeves, deep red and black embroidery, geometric patterns.

  • Gorj – Gold and silver thread embroidery, floral motifs, and metal sequins.

  • Vâlcea – Dense embroidery with floral figures and geometric shapes.

  • Dolj – Rich diagonal embroidery using navy blue, red, and gold threads.

  • Banat – Lace embroidery combined with ornamental holes.

Symbolism of the Romanian Blouse

The ie is not just a piece of clothing; it carries deep cultural and spiritual meaning. Many motifs symbolize protection, fertility, and connection to nature. Some patterns resemble the Tree of Life, wheat grains (prosperity), and stars (guidance and destiny).

The making of a Romanian blouse is an art form that requires skill, patience, and an understanding of traditional techniques. Each ie tells a unique story through its embroidery, colors, and materials, preserving the rich heritage of Romanian craftsmanship for generations to come.