Story behind de craftmanship of the coats

 

Blouse Roumaine Shop

The story of Romanian Suman and the original craft 

AUTHENTIC CRAFT · ROMANIA

A timeless Romanian suman, handcrafted in wool–cashmere blend and lined with silk–cotton brocade. Embellished with traditional hand embroidery and braided cord closures, faithful to the authentic model worn by Queen Marie and preserved at the Met Museum. While reinterpreted by Dior, Tory Burch and Valentino, this is the original heritage piece, handmade today by master artisans in Romania.

Timeless Elegance, Cultural Depth

Throughout history, Romanian traditional pieces—especially the folk costume—have been admired for their elegance and distinction. These qualities arise from thoughtful colour composition and the organic balance between plain surfaces and richly embroidered areas. The 19th century reaffirmed this perspective through a new icon: the Romanian coat.

White coat with black embroidery on a white background

The Vision of Dincă Schileru

The vision of Dincă Schileru—legend of Gorj and creator of the Romanian coat (the “schileresc” costume)—remains strikingly relevant to contemporary fashion.

 

From Queen Marie of Romania, who integrated it into the Royal wardrobe, to international maisons from Valentino to Tory Burch, the coat has inspired and stirred a wider debate on ethics in fashion, prompting society to recognise and protect its artisanal heritage.


“The renowned Romanian wool coats impressed and inspired great names—yet their essence belongs to the communities who have safeguarded the craft for generations.”

Materials & Authentic Construction

Traditionally, coats from Tismana are made of white dimie (felted wool cloth) and decorated with black găitane—twisted or braided cords applied along seams to reinforce and refine the silhouette.The contemporary artisanal piece honours these methods while elevating comfort and finish.

Gheorghe Ciuncanu: Guardian of a Craft 

The legacy of Dincă Schileru lives today through Gheorghe Ciuncanu, the only artisan in Gorj who still masters this craft. Working in Topești, Tismana, his atelier shelters two embroidery machines from 1876—German and French—maintained and repaired by his own hands to preserve their unique stitching signatures.

“They work perfectly and create embroideries that simply don’t exist today. I custom-order parts when needed—there is no other way.” — Gheorghe Ciuncanu

Gheorghe learned from his father and later refined his mastery at Arta Casnică Tismana. Since the age of 14 he has embroidered daily, often together with his wife, crafting both full garments and miniature costumes—a testament to precision and patience.

 

Gheorghe Ciuncanu, a renowned folk craftsman from Gorj County, has been awarded the honorary title of Living Human Treasure, granted by the Romanian Ministry of Culture for his outstanding contribution to preserving and transmitting traditional Romanian costume.

The decision was made by the National Commission for the Safeguarding of Intangible Cultural Heritage, in accordance with Law no. 26/2008 and the Regulation approved by OMC no. 2703/18.03.2025. Ciuncanu is among the 15 individuals recognized this year as bearers, creators, and guardians of intangible cultural heritage.

With over 60 years of experience in crafting traditional Gorj folk costumes, Gheorghe Ciuncanu has participated in numerous exhibitions and fairs both in Romania and abroad, promoting the authentic traditions of his region. This recognition reflects his vital role in conserving cultural values and passing them on to future generations.Ethics, Attribution & Cultural Dialogue

The Cultural Appropriation and the influence in fashion

In 2016, a landmark campaign reignited the global discussion on cultural appropriation in fashion, after a controversy involving the replication of the Romanian coat  (suman) without attribution. The conversation underscored the importance of crediting artisans and protecting cultural heritage—principles that guide our work and community partnerships.

 

AUTHENTIC · HANDCRAFTED · ROMANIAN HERITAGE